Colouring your hair from dark or red to blonde.
Most people think that changing your hair colour is just a matter of mixing up a formula and slapping the colour on.
They think that because box colours are so readily available at drug stores and super markets, it’s as easy as pie.
This is not the case when going from red or black to blonde.
99% of the time there is an in between colour stage. Usually a red or orange tone. You cannot (healthily) go from a dark
colour to a light colour in one sitting.
You’re probably asking yourself why.
Let me break it down for you.
Hair follicles in their natural state have many levels of pigmentation (melanin).
Let’s say your hair is a dark brown (level 4) and you want to go to a light ash blonde (level 10)
The colours that have to be removed from your hair range from Red-orange to pale yellow, there are 5 levels of colour
in between; Orange, Orange-gold, Gold, Yellow-gold & yellow.
Red is the hardest to remove. Most people have a “red undertone” to their hair.
Developers used by professional stylists usually range from 3% (or 10 volume) to 12% (40 volume). 3% only gives a slight lift of colour.
It is more for depositing a colour if there is no grey (that’s a whole other blog)
6% lifts up to 1 level (ie: level 4 to a 5)
9% lifts up to 2 levels (ie: level 4 to a 6)
and 12% lifts up to 3 levels (ie: level 4 to a 7)
These are the basic numbers. Of course there are other factors. Hair texture, porosity and elasticity.
Melanin has two possible manifestations.
Eumelanin, which has an oval or elliptical shape is found in black and brunette hair and is a
Phaeomelanin, which is smaller, partly oval and has a rod shape. It is a light pigment that is found in blonde and red hair.
Both can be found at the same time in many people. Melanin is genetically predetermined.
When removing colour to go lighter, ALL hair is different. Just because someone has what appears to be the same hair colour as you
did it in 2 sittings it doesn’t mean that yours will do the same, yours may only take one (very rare without damage) or it may take 3 or more sessions.
It can also be expensive and time consuming. Most sittings can cost between 150-250$ and take 2.5 to ??? hours.
As you can see there are many factors and a whole lot of training that goes into what we do. When we have a consultation with you and tell you it
may not go super white blonde (maybe ever) trust us.
The bottom line is the health of your hair. We’re here to make your hair look and feel it’s best while still achieving the results you’re looking for.
Be patient and understand that it’s a process but we will do all that we can to get you the look you are after.